![]() Team Z can also raise or lower the rack per your direction. Steering Rack – We chose the stock steering rack system, but you can convert to a Pinto-style rack which can be better for a pure drag car.We chose the lighter chromoly but it’s slightly more expensive. Material – Team Z offers both mild steel and chromoly.Tow Hooks – Dave can add Tow Hooks to the front of your K-member to make strapping down your Fox a cake job.Powder Coating – you can order your Team Z K-member powder coated or raw chrome moly.Team Z has plenty of options available, and we chose a few: It provides additional header and starter clearance, and also features slightly modified geometry to optimum straight line handling, but is also acceptable for “street/strip” use. Team Z provided us with a light weight Chromoly K-member that is more than 25 lbs lighter than the stock K-Member. The main part of the front suspension on the Fox Body Mustangs is the K-Member. The engine, transmission and suspension was already removed, so we moved right into the install of the Team Z front suspension. Skip to the end of the article if you want to read Dave’s Top 10 Stock Suspension Setup Tips!Ħ66 was already residing on the two post lift where it had been under the knife for some time. Lets get started with the install – where we will review each component. Team Z Caster-Camber Plates Part Number: TZMCC-1.Team Z Anti Roll Bar Part Number: TZM-ARB-XT.Team Z Tubular Adjustable Rear Upper and Lower Control Arms Part Numbers: TZM-RS-2.Team Z Tubular Adjustable Short Front Lower Control Arms Part Number: ADJ-AARM.Team Z Chrome Moly Tubular K-Member With Ford Motor Mounts Part Number: TZM-KM-MM.We wanted to get a solid suspension system that can rip low 10s with ease, but also provide a foundation to run faster. We told Dave we had a “strip car” that will see some street driving. Like a big ball park hot dog, with all of the ‘fixings, Team Z set us with a monster gift box of Drag suspension goodness. That means complete Team Z front and rear suspension, caster/camber plates, anti-roll bar…and more. When we talked to Dave Z, we said ‘we need the works’. We’ve tested our designs over and over, and it’s backed by our hands-on experience with some of the fastest NMRA racers and Mustangs in the country, in each class.” “What shows through is more than just the quality of the welds. “Our parts are built for racers, by racers,” explained Zimmerman, Team Z’s founder, and the “Z” in Team Z. Simply put - these components are not built by a chop shop welding team in China. You’ll know that racers know and trust Team Z to help them get the maximum performance on track at their horsepower level. If you’re a fan of Mustang Drag Racing, you know Team Z. Follow along as we not only install a complete Team Z system front and rear – but also give you some key insider setup times from Dave Z. To give our Fox some hook – we went to one of the top suspension drag doctors in the country: Dave Zimmerman’s Team Z Motorsports. And as we’ve found out – we always choose to. ![]() It was time to build 666 a suspension system that could easily run low 10s but also give us a foundation to go faster if we choose to. You’ll remember our Project 666 from the last few months of updates - a 1986 coupe that will do a little dirty work on the street but mainly thrive on the track. That being said, the factory Fox components are flimsy, non-adjustable, and in need of some geometry changes to produce optimum 60-foot times. Heck, as we all know, highly modified Mustangs with stock-type suspension have even eclipsed the 6-second mark at over 200 mph. Light weight – and with a suspension system that leads itself to quickly “HOOK” on the 1320, the Fox is as good as it gets. This is the approach taken by the SSM Auto Lift Bars or Metco's Instant Center Modification brackets included with each set of Metco's lower control arms.The Fox-Body Ford Mustang is one of the most popular chassis choices in history for drag racing. Another popular approach is to drop the lower rear mounting point of the bottom trailing arm. The original Lakewood "No Hop" bars relocate the rear-axle mounting point of the upper control arms higher, which shortens the IC. There are two basic ways to change a Chevelle's IC position. Moving the instant center closer to the rear of the car reduces the leverage on the rear axle, reducing and eventually eliminating the car's tendency to squat. By changing the locating points of either the upper or lower control arms, the IC can be moved longitudinally (fore-aft) as well as vertically. The instant center (IC) is an imaginary point defined by extending the line of the upper and lower control arms forward until the two lines intersect. The basic information regarding instant center is the same for all cars, but for this discussion, we'll focus on the factory-designed four-link system.
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